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ProductsProduct ListAnionic SurfactantsHumectantsEmollientsFunctional PowdersGelling AgentsOther SurfactantsAmino Acids |
Emollients
Ajinomoto emollients arose from research into amino acids and the mechanisms of skin moisturization. In healthy skin, an appropriate moisture balance is maintained by NMF, hydrophilic components, and intercellular lipids or lipophilic components in the horny layer. These two components work according to two different moisturizing mechanisms. Intercellular lipids form lamella liquid crystals with a two-molecular membrane to function as a barrier, maintaining moisture, and preventing invasion of foreign bodies from the outside.
Many scientists believe that the Cell Membrane Complex (CMC), a substance found between the cortical cells in the intercuticle cortex, also plays an important role in conditioning and maintaining healthy hair. At Ajinomoto, we designed a new series of amino acid emollients based on these findings. We call it ELDEW®.
ELDEW® is an emollient derived from glutamic acid, natural fatty acid, higher alcohol, and phytosterol.
Our research has confirmed that ELDEW® forms lamella liquid crystals identical to ceramide.
As a result, ELDEW®, a ceramide-like amino acid derivative, yields emollient efficacy comparable to that of a ceramide.
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| The ratio of ester components are different between ELDEW® PS-304 and PS-306. |
ELDEW®APS-307Ajinomoto Co. has been researching and developing cosmetic ingredients based on our extensive knowledge of amino acids and skin science. Previously, Ajinomoto Co. developed the ELDEW® CL series and the PS series, which are efficacious emollients derived from L-glutamic acid and sterols. Alternately, ELDEW® APS-307, having a β-alanine structure, is a light, waxy emollient. It has an excellent moisturizing feeling on the skin without stickiness.
Perception Map of ELDEW®sELDEW® APS-307 is designed to meet the requirements for creating a hard texture while maintaining a light feeling that other ELDEW®s cannot. Based on this property, ELDEW® APS-307 can be one of the main components of lipsticks or liquid foundations.
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CTFA INCI Name: ELDEW® CL-301:
Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
ELDEW® CL-202: Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
ELDEW® PS-203: Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
ELDEW® PS-304, PS-306: Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
ELDEW® APS-307: Phytosteryl/Decyltetradecyl Myristoyl
Methyl Beta-Alaninate |
ELDEW®SL-205ELDEW® SL-205 is an amino acid-derived, highly-polar emollient that Ajinomoto Co., Inc. has developed based on our amino acid technology. It has the ability to readily dissolve poorly soluble materials, such as organic UV filters and active ingredients, which give formulators greater flexibility in developing new products.
Sensory Evaluation ELDEW® SL-205 has a characteristically smooth spreadability different from other emollients.
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| IPM: Isopropyl Myristate, ICEH: Isocetyl Octanate, OTG: Octanoic Acid Triglyceride, LP: Liquid Paraffin | |